I space each rod an equal distance apart by twisting the rod holder in the base it screws into until all eight of the rod tips are evenly fanned out across the transom. When using this many rods, I like to use identical rod-and-reel combinations. I find a limber rod, such as the Shakespeare Ugly Stik crappie rod, to be invaluable. A limber rod provides some give to a biting fish without tearing the jig hook out of his mouth. Rod length is a matter of personal preference, but the longer the rod, the easier it is to achieve some spread in the lines. Spreading the rod tips out will assist in preventing tangles. However, unlike longer 12- to 16-foot rods, shorter 9-foot rods do allow you to work on twists and tangles in the line without having to stick the reel in the water to reach the rod tip.

LINE
The diameter of the fishing line used and the amount of line out is a factor in how deep your bait will troll. A high-visibility, abrasion-resistant mono line in 6-pound-test is a good choice. The high vis will allow the angler to notice if lines are crossed back behind the boat, and such line also makes detecting a light-biting fish easier. Abrasion resistance is necessary because the best fishing grounds tend to be near some type of cover.

A simple knot that can be tied quickly is best. Having experimented with different knots, I stick to using an overhand figure 8 loop knot. The loop knot allows the jig total freedom of movement. When multi-rig trolling, stopping the boat to retrieve a hangup will cause all the other baits to sink. One hangup then becomes eight. You can quickly tell the difference between a bite and a hangup because the hangup will make an even, slow steady pull backward. Quickly grab the line in front of the rod tip and pull the line free. Expect breakoffs. When a line breaks off, you'll find it easier to leave the rod in the holder and let it trail behind the boat until you're clear of the obstruction. Make it a practice to work from the rod holder, even setting the hook and returning the rod to the holder if other fish are on.

One final line tip: Don't lay rods in the boat; you'll either step on one or the line will hang up and pull the rod out of the boat.

BAITS
Depth of presentation when crappie fishing is often the key factor in catching fish. Being upward feeders, crappie will respond better to your bait if it passes right at or within a foot or two above the depth the fish are holding. Crappie seldom chase a bait up very far and almost never take a bait below their level.

The easiest and most effective way to control the depth of presentation when long-line trolling is the weight of the jighead used. The standard is a 1/16-ounce jig on either a No. 2 or No. 4 hook. In water shallower than 6 to 8 feet, anglers need to scale back to a 1/32-ounce head on a No. 4 hook. As water temps increase and fish move deeper after the spawn, moving up to a 1/8-ounce jighead or tying double combinations of 1/16-ounce jigs on the same line will bring the baits down in the water column.

Jig bodies come in a wide variety of sizes, styles and colors. Experiment with different baits until you find the one that works best. Because trolling lacks the variable retrieve or jigging action that an angler casting or flipping a bait would impart to the bait, baits that have some built-in action tend to work best for trolling. My personal preference is a triple tip curly-tailed grub.

Start off your trolling day with eight different colors. I attach an adhesive-backed piece of Velcro to the base of each rod holder to hold a second bait of the same size and color as the rod in that holder. This way I don't have to try to remember what was on that line if it breaks off or starts to catch fish. As a fish preference pattern emerges, change baits to take advantage.